For an English country boy moving to a cosmopolitan city on the other side of the world has been an eye opener. Was London ever like this, or did I just not make the most of it? For example my weekend has dragged me north and south to tiny bars, freezing festivals, 1920’s big bands and wine filled former markets.
Melbourne is very much like London in that those born south of the river, rarely venture north of it and vice verse. If they do they’ll complain about it. It takes the foreigner or the migrant to ignore the riparian boundary and make the most of the whole of the city.
Happy to venture north of the river from my inner south suburb, I had discovered the Leaps and Bounds Music Festival, a small festival of local acts performing in venues around the northern suburbs. Now you either like the music of David Bowie played on ukulele or you don’t! I happen to love a 3 piece known as The Thin White Ukes who played at the fantastically named Some Velvet Morning (if you don’t know the song, look it up on You Tube) in a suburb called Clifton Hill on Thursday evening.
The bar itself is probably the smallest I’ve visited in Melbourne and all the better for it. In my experience Aussie pubs and bars tend towards the huge and impersonal, vast caverns with no atmosphere. Some Velvet Morning is the opposite with friendly, cheerful bar staff, a simple greek based menu, short well chosen wine list and an interesting selection of beer. It is tiny, but it has a shuffle board table upstairs (which you don’t see every day), plus a band room which accommodates all of 30 people, making it an intimate, cosy space, especially on a cold winter’s evening.
The band were both great fun and highly talented, making me blush when I think about my own attempts at the ukulele, giving a new take on both Bowie classics and a few lesser known numbers. If you get the chance go and see them. I was lucky enough to talk to them afterwards and hope I was able to help with some contacts for gigs in the UK.
The following night I was back south of the river at the Map 57 Festival in St. Kilda. For those who don’t know the city St. Kilda is Melbourne’s seaside playground, especially if you’re a non-native; Melburnuians wouldn’t be seen dead there, unless of course there’s a festival on.
Map 57 refers to the page in Melways where St. Kilda falls, it also falls in greater clarity on page 2N, but I guess Map 57 sounds like a better name than the Map 2N Festival. Oh, you don’t know what Melways is, well its the ludicrously large map book that every Melbourne car has tucked into a seat pocket and these days is never referred to, a local A-Z guidebook with way too many pages.
The festival occupies a small corner of parkland adjacent to the splendid Palais Theatre, where incidentally the very latest chart topping pop combos Boney M and Adam Ant are due to play soon. The small festival site boasts an ice rink and a big wheel alongside, a bar in a tram carriage, street food stalls, much needed fire pits on a freezing evening and two performance spaces including The Box, a welcomingly warm temporary theatre.
Gin is having a moment, no Melbourne bar would dream of stocking less than 10 varieties, in fact the town has not one but two festivals devoted to the spirit. Indeed gin is having a moment everywhere, on my recent visit back to the UK even rural Norfolk pubs had a gin of the week, and if you’ve been to Norfolk you’ll know how remarkable that is! Somehow my home town has its own gin brand too courtesy of the local boat yard. Therefore it’s no great surprise that it has become a suitable subject for cabaret.
Two ladies in cocktail dresses, a bearded gent at the upright piano, harmonies and giggles as we are taken through history by Mothers Ruin A Cabaret About Gin, puns abound as do stories from Gin Lane to Prohibition accompanied by well known and original songs sung beautifully. Gin is swilled while the best is saved to last with a song entitled I’ve Drunk Every Gin. The cabaret is due in the UK very soon including stops in London and the Edinburgh Festival, check it out if you can.
Luckily the gin hadn’t got the better of me as I headed the following day to North Melbourne and the old Meat Market for Barossa Be Consumed, 44 wineries, offering a massive 220 wines to taste and no matter how small the sample and how much you spit that is potentially mind numbing.
This was an incredibly popular event, hardly surprising given that the Barossa is one of Australia’s great wine regions, boasting well known names such as Yalumba, Jacobs Creek, Peter Lehman, St. Hallett and Henshke. It’s always great to meet the people who actually make the wine and hear their stories, they’re always passionate and this was one of those tastings where the winemakers were in abundance, especially amongst the smaller producers such as Sons of Eden, Bethany and Teusner. Avoiding the big names then, my increasingly shaky notes indicate I still managed to sample 66 different wines. Ouch.
So what was good, well most of it, despite the preponderance of Australia’s favourite wine, Shiraz, which always seems to be drunk when its far too young in this country, so the flavours never get to develop. However there were some real winners for me, here’s five of them:
- Spinifex Eden Vally Reisling 2016 – subtle and complex
- Bethany Chardonnay 2015 – very little oak, peach & melon, so subtle its almost un-Australian
- Tim Smith Wines Reserve Mataro 2015 – spicy palate with dark berry flavours
- Saltram Mamre Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 – rich and beautifully fruity
- Kaesler The Bogan Shiraz 2014 – anyone who’s prepared to call their wine Bogan is alright in my book, but it also has lots of length, the right amount of spice and ripe plum, above all it has flavour, give it 10 years and it’ll be ready to really enjoy.
Recovered from all that wine there was just time on Sunday for a quick visit to Prahran Market before returning to one of my favourite Melbourne discoveries where one of its quirkiest bands was playing. The Spotted Mallard in Brunswick has enjoyed a Sunday afternoon residency all month from Andrew Nolte and His Orchestra. Mr. Nolte is one of Melbourne’s great eccentrics, a man who has based his musical career on recreating the big band sounds of the 1920’s complete with vintage microphone, brylcreemed hair and pencil moustache.
Inspired by the orchestra’s syncopated sounds the Mallard’s dance floor fills quickly with astonishingly accomplished dancers while small children shake and sway in the background as those of us with two left feet tap both of them, there is a truly joyous relaxed, friendly vibe. You may not know the tunes but the sound of a good big band always makes you smile. And this must be the only big band in the last 6 decades to launch their new recording as a 78rpm vinyl record!
The Spotted Mallard is basically one large upstairs ballroom making it ideal for live music, it has a great beer list including the very good Stockade Brew Rare Ink Stout, which in this land of fizz and chills is neither too gassy or too cold for a winters day. Some days it has mulled wine too, which is how my wife and I stumbled upon it in the first place.
It may be winter in Melbourne where it can be cold, grey and wet, where houses have no heating or insulation, where roads flood with just the smallest drop of rain and where roadworks are absolutely everywhere but it is still a great place to discover with some wonderful events for a very Melbourne weekend. In the words of Mr. Nolte “May it please you”.